Pretentious, moi? Welling­ton has one dai­ly news­pa­per, and that news­pa­per has one restau­rant crit­ic, who cer­tain­ly has his own… dis­tinc­tive style. The Fly has decid­ed that David Bur­ton needs some account­abil­i­ty. Wel­come to this new series.

What review: David Bur­ton on The Hangar

David Burton is better than you: 3/5

“Yet despite our endur­ing Kiwi attach­ment to milky flat whites and frothy cap­puc­ci­nos, the fact is that cof­fee con­nois­seur­ship is now mov­ing beyond espres­so.” 

How very dare we? Don’t we know that’s not how they do that in Italy?

“Cor­rect­ly spelt gre­mo­la­ta, this gar­nish is rather hilar­i­ous­ly list­ed here as “ger­mo­la­ta” (the per­fect nick­name, I’d have thought, for a grub­by chef some­where).”

David Burton is down with the kids: 5/5

” Flight Cof­fee’s giant roast­ing machine set an arti­sanal tone for the Hangar, where undressed tim­ber pan­el­ing and bare con­crete floors still enhance the hip ware­house aes­thet­ic.”

“I imag­ine many par­ents these days, myself includ­ed, bang on at their kids about tat­toos and how they lim­it career options. Yet you soon realise how ill-found­ed these prej­u­dices are when you encounter the gen­uine affa­bil­i­ty and pro­fes­sion­al­ism of all those who work front of house at the Hangar, where a thor­ough ink­ing seems almost a pre­con­di­tion of the job.”

Also, he took along a veg­an guest. Crikey. What next, tak­ing pub­lic trans­port?

David Burton uses a lot of fancy talk: 3.5/5

“Hence espres­so cof­fee beans are more about the bit­ter-sweet caramelised roast­ing pro­file than the inher­ent fruity acid­i­ty of the beans.”

“Call it pre­ten­tious if you will, but these notes did indeed stand out. As the cof­fee cooled, its cit­rus char­ac­ter came pleas­ant­ly to the fore.” You’re mak­ing this too easy for us, David.

Proportion of Burton to actual food talk: 4/5

Ten para­graphs about cof­fee, three about the food, two about tat­toos. Seems legit.

Accuracy of review: ?/5

Embar­rass­ing­ly, this Fly has nev­er eat­en at the Hangar. You win this time, Bur­ton!